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General Information |
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Hardiness and
Gardening Zones What You Need to Know about Your Soil Understanding
Organic Fertilizers |
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Using Lime in the Garden Composting
Soil Building and Regeneration
Soil Testing |
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Growing Tips
Harvesting Tips
Storing Tips
Pests and Diseases |
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Avoid using chemical fertilizers. Nitrous oxide, released by
chemical fertilizers and burning fossil fuels, has a global warming
potential 310 times that of carbon dioxide! |
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Most of the articles on the best soil improvement methods,
from composting and fertilization to cover crops and green manures, in the
links section, relate to organic, sustainable gardening methods. Many are
written by gardeners and scientists from outside of our region but the
information there is either universal or can be easily adapted to the
climatic conditions in the Kootenays. |
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Promote global worming! |
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| Kootenay Gardening |
Hardiness and gardening zones |
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| Hardiness refers
to the plant ability to withstand low winter temperatures. |
| When buying new plants for your garden the first
thing you need to know is: are they hardy enough for my climatic zone?
You will find the plant hardiness zone on
the label attached to the plant you are going to buy, but do you
really know what zone do you live in?
By looking at the tables on the right you will find that easily. |
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Temperature conversion: |
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Gardening zones |
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Zone |
Minimum winter temperature |
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2 |
- 45C to - 40C |
- 50F to - 40F |
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3 |
- 40C to - 35C |
- 40F to - 30F |
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4 |
- 35C to - 29C |
- 30F to - 20F |
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5 |
- 29C to - 23C |
- 20F to - 10F |
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6 |
- 23C to - 18C |
- 10F to
0F |
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7 |
- 18C to - 12C |
0F to 10F |
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8 |
- 12C to - 7C |
10F to 20F |
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9 |
- 7C to - 1C |
20F to 30F |
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| Temperature conversion C temperature = (F temperature - 32) / 1.8
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| by calculation: F temperature = C temperature x 1.8 + 32 |
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You must take into
account not only regular (still air), but also wind chill
temperatures in your area. In the extreme conditions the wind
chill temperature can be as much as 20 degrees C lower than the
still air temperature.
Within every zone plants growing in a
sheltered position will withstand lower temperatures than those
exposed to cold, drying wind.
Young plants are more susceptible to cold than older, deeply rooted ones. Therefore
special protection should be afforded to plants during first few
years after planting.
Plants develop their hardiness gradually and
become more cold hardy as winter progresses. With the arrival of
spring cold hardiness decreases. Hardiness can decrease very
rapidly if plants are exposed to warmer temperatures for a period of time. |
The greatest danger of frost damage happens at the end of winter and very early at
spring, especially in locations exposed to winter sun, when plants
can't withstand rapid changes in day-night temperatures. This is
especially dangerous to
the new growth on evergreens. After the vegetation
period has started even the hardiest plants may be considerably
damaged by slight ground frosts.
Roots are substantially less hardy than above-ground parts of the plant. In
areas where severe frosts without snow cover may occur it is a
good idea to put 10-15 cm winter mulch around the plant.
The type of soil is also an important factor in ability of plants to survive in cold
temperatures. Plants that survive in sandy, well drained soils may
not survive in clayey, water saturated ones. |
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| Plant hardiness
zones for some of our locations: |
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Castlegar 6a-6b
Christina Lake 5b-6a
Cranbrook 3b-4a
Creston 5b-6a
Fauquier 6b
Fernie 3a-3b
Fruitvale 6a |
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Grand Forks 4b-5a
Greenwood 4a-4b
Invermere 4a Kaslo
5b-6a Kimberley
3a-3b Midway 5a
Moyie 4a |
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Nakusp 6a Nelson
5b-6a New Denver 6a
Riondel 6a
Rock Creek 5a
Rossland 4a-4b
Salmo 5a |
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Skookumchuck 4a
Slocan 5a-6a South Slocan
4b-5b Sparwood
2b-3a Thrums 5b-6a
Trail 6a-6b
Vallican 4b-5b |
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Wynndel 6a Yahk
3b-4a |
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Zone 1 is vulnerable to frost 365 days per year. Zone 2 in general
is free from frost during June and July. Zones 3 and 4 are
usually free from frost during June, July and August. Zones
5 is usually frost free from the middle of May through the middle
of September. Zone 6 is usually free from frost May through September. |
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| Kootenay Gardening |
What you need to know about your soil |
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To get the best results from your gardening efforts first of all you
have to know your soil.
Soil is composed of disintegrated rock mixed with decayed
organic matter. It contains water, air and living organisms.
Soils
vary in their depth, structure, chemical composition and fertility.
The gardening practice should be directed towards the deepening of
shallow soils, keeping soil in desirable physical condition,
encouragement of the development of favourable soil organisms, and
addition of the plant food that is not available in sufficient amount
in the soil. |
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Rock particles |
Disintegrated rock makes up up to 90% of
soil weight.
Rock particles vary in size ranging form
microscopic to coarse gravel and stones. They also vary in
chemical composition, depending upon the type of rock they
originated from.
Small spaces between particles are
occupied by water and air.
Slowly dissolving, rock
particles supply nutrient minerals that can be absorbed by
plants. |
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Humus |
The decayed organic matter of animal and
plant origin in the soil is known as humus.
Humus is a necessary element of the fertile
soil. Every good gardener makes effort to increase the
amount of humus by addition of organic matter such as
manure and compost, by mulching, and growing cover crops.
Incorporated into the soil, organic
matter becomes a source of food supply for the organisms
that live in the soil. With their help it gradually decays
and is eventually broken down into simple chemical
compounds such as carbon dioxide, water, ammonia, and
other nutrients available to plants.
Humus also helps to increase the air and
water holding capacity of the soil.
It gives the topsoil a color that is
usually much darker than that of the subsoil.
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Water in the Soil |
Of the water that enters the soil a
portion is held as a film surrounding the soil particles.
The remainder drains downward until it reaches the water
table.
The water in the soil is a solution of a
variety of substances that became directly available and
can be absorbed by the root hairs of plants.
The byproduct of respiration of plants
roots and of lover organisms in the soil - carbon dioxide,
increases the solvent power of soil water.
A soil in good condition contains water
only as a film surrounding the soil particles. If the spaces between the soil particles
become filled with water, most of the air necessary for
respiration of the roots and soil organisms is driven out.
Only water and bog plants are able to
survive successfully on soils that are saturated for
prolonged periods of time. |
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Soil Aeration |
In most cultivated soils 20-30 percent of
the soil volume consists of air spaces. The air filling those spaces contains
more carbon dioxide than air above the soil surface.
Well aerated soils are ideal for the
growth of most plants, since there is a plentiful supply
of water together with a sufficient supply of oxygen
essential for the respiration of the roots and soil
organisms. |
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Essential
substances |
Of the soil substances
which are commonly absorbed by the roots, the most
essential for the plant normal growth are:
nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium,
sulfur, and iron. A soil deficient in any one of these is
unable to support vegetation successfully.
Most soils contain sufficient supply of calcium,
magnesium, sulfur and iron. In the garden practice the
fertilizing routine is usually directed towards increasing
the amount of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in the
soil.
More
about essential substances |
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Soil
Organisms |
A fertile soil is
teeming with countless millions of living organisms. Some
are favourable to the plant growth, others detrimental.
These organisms, in the course of their life modify the
chemical and mechanical condition of the soil.
Some of
the smallest soil organisms, bacteria, obtain their food
by decomposing more complex organic substances in the soil
into simple ones, such as carbon dioxide, water, and
ammonia. Still other bacteria transform ammonia into
nitrate salts, the only form in which most plants can use
nitrogen.
Another bacteria may form modules on the
roots of some plants and convert atmospheric nitrogen into
nitrogen compounds available to the plant.
More about soil organisms |
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Soil
classification |
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Soils may be divided into four main
groups, based on the size of rock particles they are
formed of and the amount of organic matter they contain. |
- Clay soils - heavy, and difficult to
cultivate. Addition of sand, humus and lime can make
clay soil more porous, more fertile and more workable.
It is important that the clay soil is properly drained,
since it is very moisture retentive. Prolonged
saturation is very detrimental to the health of most
garden plants. Raised beds are a good idea for clay
soils. Clay soils are cold and not suitable for early
crops.
- Sandy soils - porous, well drained, warm and
suitable for early crops. Addition of humus in liberal
quantities is very desirable for sandy soils. That will
not only make the soil more fertile, but will also help
to hold and conserve moisture and slow leaching. In dry
weather sandy soils need watering at least once a week.
In general, raised beds are not a good idea for sandy
soils.
- Peat, Bog and Muck soils - formed of dead and
decaying bog plants. Acid. Draining is needed and an
application of lime. Addition of loam or good soil is
advisable.
- Loam - a mix of sand, silt, clay and humus.
Loam is the ideal gardener's soil. A good loam is
crumbly and easy to work with. It is well drained yet
retentive of moisture.
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Drainage |
Good drainage is essential for the
successful cultivation of most garden plants.
On well drained land plant roots extend
deep into the soil, so even during dry periods the plants
are able to make use of the water held deep in the
ground. |
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Liming |
Lime granulates the particles of clayey
soil and makes it more friable and crumbly. It neutralizes acid in the soil.
Lime liberates some plant foods,
particularly potash, so it becomes available to the plants.
There are two kinds of lime available: agricultural or
garden lime and dolomite lime (contains magnesium). |
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Soil pH |
The soil pH indicates soil active acidity or alkalinity.
When the concentration of hydrogen ions
(H+) exceeds that of hydroxyl ions (OH-) we have an acid
soil. When the concentration of OH- ions is
greater than H+ ions the soil is alkaline. If there is an exact balance the soil is
neutral.
On the pH scale 7 represents neutrality,
higher reading indicates alkalinity, lower indicates acidity.
It should be noted that one level on the
scale corresponds to ten times greater concentration of
specific ions in the soil.
For example, acidity at pH5 is ten times
as great as at pH6, and acidity at pH4 is ten times as
great as at pH5, or one hundred times as great as at pH6.
Under cultivation soils tend to become more acid.
Use lime to increase pH (make soil less
acid), or sulfur to decrease pH (make soil less alkaline, or more acid).
In general, to increase pH one level, mix 2.5 kg
(about 5 lbs) )of lime with 10 square meters of soil. To
decrease pH one level, mix 0.5 kg (about 1 lb) of elemental sulfur with
10 square meters of soil.
Addition of Peat moss, Pine needles, Oak
leaves or sawdust will slightly increase soil acidity.
Nutrients such as phosphorus, magnesium,
potash and iron are the most available to plants in a
slightly acidic soil with pH of 5.5 - 6.5.
In alkaline soils metallic micronutrients
are not easily released by chemical reactions in the soil.
They are, however, made relatively abundant in acid soils.
Most vegetables and many other plants do
best in slightly acidic soil. |
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| Kootenay Gardening |
Organic Fertilizers - Basics |
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Soil compaction, lack of organic matter in the
soil, frequent, shallow watering and excessive or uninformed use of
fertilizers are the most common reasons for a poor plant growth in the
garden. Before you consider fertilizing, first make sure that none of the
above applies to your garden. Though to a lesser degree than with synthetic
fertilizers, excessive or unnecessary use of organic fertilizers can destroy
the right nutrient levels and balances in the soil and do more harm than
good. Always test your soil before proceeding with fertilizing. |
Organic fertilizers are derived from mineral sources and
plant and animal by-products. They supply nutrients, stimulate beneficial
organisms in the soil and improve soil structure.
They can be used
alone or in combinations with other organic materials. Organic
fertilizers are most often slow-release fertilizers, what means that
release of nutrients available directly to plants takes place over a
period of time, typically
1-4 months. They work best when
incorporated into the soil. They should be used in quantities as
recommended by the manufacturer.
They contain:
N - nitrogen - vital to plant growth
P - phosphorus - aids in root growth and good blooming and
flowering
K - potassium - important for over all plant health and resistance
to stress and diseases. Aids in production of carbohydrates and
ripening of fruit.
Organic fertilizers are also a good source of micronutrients like
iron, manganese, boron, copper, zinc and others.
Among the most popular organic fertilizers are: |
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Plant based
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Alfalfa meal or pellets
- balanced, low, typically 2-1-2
N-P-K ratio. Contains plant growth stimulant trianconatol. For best
results apply early in spring.
Cottonseed meal
- high nitrogen, typically 6 - 0.4 -1.5
N-P-K ratio. Most likely made from GMO plants. May contain insecticide
residues. For best results apply early in spring.
Kelp (seaweed) meal
- high potassium, typically 1-0-8
N-P-K
ratio. A rich source of micronutrients, amino-acids, vitamins and
plant growth hormones. Stimulates soil microbial activity. Contains
salt. Release
time more than 4 months. For best results apply late in fall or
early in spring. Can be used as a foliar spray during summer.
Soybean meal
- high nitrogen, typically 7-2-1 N-P-K ratio.
Be aware that this fertilizer may be made from GMO soybeans, since 50%
of the commercial production of soy is GMO. For best results apply
early in spring.
Wood ash
- low, on average 0-1-3 N-P-K ratio depending on the
plant material. A good source of calcium and potassium. Contains
phosphorus and magnesium, very rich in micronutrients. High pH
ranging 9 to 13. Decreases soil acidity. Can be used as a lime
substitute. May be applied at any time of year, however autumn is
generally the best time for wood ash application. Apply at the rate
of 1 – 1 ˝ kg per 10 sq m. |
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Animal based
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Guano
- Bat and sea bird manure. There are two kinds: high
phosphorus, typically 3-10-1 N-P-K ratio or high nitrogen, typically
10-3-1 N-P-K ratio. A good source of micronutrients. Increases
organic matter content in the soil. Can be mixed with the soil or
applied as a top dressing. For best results apply in spring or in
liquid form in summer. |
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Blood meal - Dried, powdered
blood. High nitrogen, typically 12-0-0 N-P-K ratio. Quick
acting. For best results apply in spring. Because it can burn
apply a few weeks in advance. Can be used in liquid form in summer.
Bone meal
- high phosphorus, typically 3-15-0 N-P-K ratio.
Also contains calcium and micronutrients. For best results apply
before planting or as a soil amendment in fall or early spring.
Fish meal
- high nitrogen and phosphorus, typically 8-12-2
N-P-K ratio. A rich source of micronutrients. For best results apply
in spring.
Manure
- balanced, low N-P-K ratio, a very slow, over a period
of years, release. N-P-K contents depends on the manure source and
is the highest in the poultry manure and lowest in the dairy cattle
and swine manures. A great source of humus, micronutrients and
microorganisms beneficial to biochemical reactions in the soil.
Contains salts. Excessive use can lead to a salt build-up. For best
results apply late in fall or in liquid form in summer.
Worm Castings
- worm manure. Balanced, low N-P-K ratio,
contains calcium and magnesium, rich in soil microorganisms, plant
hormones and enzymes. Improves soil structure. Will not burn. Apply
in spring. |
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Rock powders
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A very slow release, over a period of
years. Apply in fall for the best results in the first year.
Beneficial to plants in many seasons following application.
Phosphorus and calcium source:
Rock phosphate - finely ground
mineral rock, typically 30% phosphate, calcium, micronutrients. A
very slow release, about 3% a year. It is very insoluble in alkaline
soils.
Colloidal phosphate - total
phosphate about 20%. Consists of clay particles surrounded by
natural phosphate. Contains calcium, iron, silicon and other
micronutrients. A very slow release, about 2-3% a year.
Potassium source:
Greensand - contains potassium
and iron.
Feldspar - contains potassium,
magnesium, silicon, calcium, iron and boron.
Potassium sulfate - contains
potassium and sulfur.
Biotite (black mica) - contains
potassium, iron, magnesium, aluminum, silicon.
Calcium source:
Gypsum - hydrated calcium
sulfate, CaSO4.2H2O, source of calcium and
sulfur.
Lime - source of calcium,
contains micronutrients. There are two kinds of lime: agricultural
or garden lime (pulverized limestone or chalk) and dolomite lime.
Agricultural lime is composed mostly of calcium carbonate CaCO3.
Dolomite lime is composed of calcium magnesium carbonate CaMg(CO3)2
and is a liming agent as well as a potent magnesium fertilizer. |
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| Kootenay Gardening |
Using Lime in the Garden |
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Of the chemical substances in the soil the most essential
for the plant normal growth are: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium,
sulfur, and iron. A soil deficient in any one of these is
unable to support vegetation successfully. The main source of calcium is lime.
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On land in need of lime more coarse,
stronger growing grasses tend to take over. Weeds like sheep sorrel and
others flourish, and often moss grows over the surface.
Such a land does not respond to cultivation and fertilizing as expected.
Soils that are excessively acidic benefit form the application of
lime. In that kind of soils some nutrients become locked up and are not
available to plants. Lime sets free those plant foods. It neutralizes acid in the soil.
It is a soil tonic and itself a plant food.
Lime also improves the soil quality. It granulates the particles of clayey
soil and makes it more friable and crumbly.
Loose sandy soils by addition of lime become more compact and moisture retentive.
Lime helps keep in check diseases like club rot and clover
sickness and is distasteful to pests like slugs, wireworms and leatherjackets.
Most soils contain sufficient supply of
calcium. In such circumstances addition of lime can bring undesirable results.
There are also plants that clearly detest lime, so the decision "to
lime or not to lime" should be based on both:
the characteristics of your soil as well as what are you going to grow there. |
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Measuring the soil acidity/alkalinity |
When the concentration of hydrogen ions
(H+) in the soil exceeds that of hydroxyl ions (OH-) the soil is acid. When the concentration of OH- ions is
greater than H+ ions the soil is alkaline. If there is an exact balance the soil is neutral.
The soil alkalinity or acidity can be
measured on the pH scale of 1-14. On the scale 7 represents neutrality,
higher reading indicates alkalinity, lower indicates acidity.
It should be noted that one level on the
scale corresponds to ten times greater concentration of
specific ions in the soil. For example, acidity at pH5 is ten times
as great as at pH6, and acidity at pH4 is ten times as
great as at pH5, or one hundred times as great as at pH6.
Acid soils are often referred to as
“sour” and alkaline soils as “sweet”.
Nutrients such as phosphorus, magnesium,
potash, iron manganese and zinc are the most available to plants in a
slightly acidic soil with pH of 5.5 - 6.5. |
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Increasing/decreasing the soil acidity/alkalinity |
Use lime to increase pH (make soil more
alkaline or less acid), or sulfur to decrease pH (make soil less alkaline or more acid).
In general, to increase pH
one level, broadcast 2.5 kg of lime over 10 square meters
(about 1 ton per acre) of soil surface and work it into
the topsoil. To decrease pH one level, work 0.5 kg of elemental sulfur
into 10 square meters of soil surface.
Light sandy soils need slightly less
lime than heavy clayey soils to achieve the same results.
Always measure pH level before liming. |
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Dressing with Peat moss, Pine needles, Oak
leaves or sawdust will slightly increase the soil acidity.
Addition of high nitrogen fertilizers like sulfate of ammonia or
urea will also lower pH and increase the soil acidity.
Adding manure year after year will also lower pH and make the soil more acid.
Since under cultivation soils tend to become more acid it is
beneficial to apply lime periodically to keep soil from becoming too
acidic. Light dressings in late winter or early
spring, in alternate years, give the best results. It is best
to broadcast lime on to surface of newly dug soil and left for the rains to wash in.
The smaller the lime particles
are ground, the faster the lime will work to change the pH.
Never mix lime and fertilizer. Lime at least a month after
fertilizing. Or, if you plan to fertilize in spring, apply lime in
the fall and vice versa. |
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Plant Preferences |
Different plants require different levels of acidity. A well
prepared soil of neutral or slightly acid character with a pH level
between 6.5 and 7 is the best for the great majority of garden plants.
Roses, Daphne, Viburnum, Elderberry, Tamarix, Hazel, Buddleia, Berberis, Lavender, Ivy,
Privet, Spiraeas, Kerria, Forsythia, Boxwood, Quinces, Mock Oranges, Honeysuckle, Lilacs,
Clematis, Hollies, Flowering Currant, Deutzia, Rubus family,
Cotoneaster, Juniper, Yews, Pear and Plum trees, Flowering Crabs and
Cherries, Mountain Ashes and Hawthorns do very well on slightly alkaline soils. Peas, Beans, and many Brassicas prefer a slightly alkaline soil, as
well, with pH of 7.0 or even slightly higher.
Many vegetables and garden flowers, however, do best in slightly acidic soil. Many Conifers, Hemlock among them, prefer slightly acid soils, as well.
There are also plants that are clearly harmed by lime.
The plant family Ericaceae (Heath) (calcifuges)
consists of mostly lime-hating plants that thrive in acid soils. The family includes
Blueberries, Huckleberries, Cranberries, Heathers, Azaleas and
Rhododendrons. If grown on alkaline soils those plants develop symptoms
of iron deficiency, since under alkaline conditions iron becomes less
soluble and less available to plants.
They perform best when soil acidity ranges between 4.0 and 5.2 pH. |
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Kinds of Lime |
There are two kinds of lime available: agricultural or
garden lime (pulverized limestone or chalk) and dolomite lime.
Agricultural or garden lime is composed mostly of calcium carbonate CaCO3.
Dolomite lime is composed of calcium magnesium carbonate CaMg(CO3)2.
It should be considered as a liming agent as well as a potent
magnesium fertilizer. If used in excess dolomite may cause undesirable magnesium buildup.
Application of dolomite lime once in a while in rotation with
agricultural lime is beneficial. |
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| Kootenay Gardening |
Composting |
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Begin Composting |
A simple, but very effective, plan for a compost pile.
Article at the Organic Gardening website. |
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Composting for Sustainable Organic Gardening |
"Composting improves soil structure and
moisture retention. Billions of decaying organisms (25,000
bacteria placed end to end equal one inch) feed, grow,
reproduce and die, recycling garden waste into an organic
fertilizer and soil conditioner. Composting is the ultimate
recycling process – improving soil structure, increasing the
soil’s ability to hold moisture, providing soil aeration,
fertilization, and nitrogen storage. It buffers pH, releases
nutrients, and provides food for microbial life."
A comprehensive information on composting at
the Avant-Gardening: Creative Organic Gardening website.
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The Carbon/Nitrogen Ratio |
Did you know that the ideal carbon-nitrogen
ratio in your compost pile is 30:1? That balance will cause
your pile to rot steadily and produce nutrient-rich material.
Article at the Organic Gardening web site
will teach you an easy way to calculate the carbon-nitrogen ratio in your pile.
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| Kootenay Gardening |
Soil building and regeneration |
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Building Healthy Soil
"By regularly replenishing the nutrients your
plants use, you keep the soil productive. By mixing organic
matter (preferably compost) into the soil whenever possible,
you mimic Nature's cycles of birth, decay, and rebirth. Ideal
garden soil is dark-colored, smells kind of sweet, compresses
into a loose lump in your hand when moist, and is full of earthworms."
Organic Gardening website. |
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Building Soil Naturally |
"Organic gardening is growing without
chemical fertilizers, naturally building the soil to support
healthy plant life. Chemical fertilizers and additives will,
over time, damage the soil's ability to provide what plants
need to resist disease, insect attacks, and stress. Soil
depletion of organic nutrients is one of the main causes of
unhealthy plants and disease."
Avant-Gardening: Creative Organic Gardening website. |
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Soil Regeneration |
"Organic farming is about a lot of things,
but first and foremost it’s about healthy soil - soil that’s
rich in nutrients and alive with microbes. That’s healthy
soil. And as we’re fond of saying, healthy soil makes healthy
food. And that makes healthy people. It all starts with the dirt."
The Rodale Institute website. |
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Cover Crops and Green Manures |
"The contribution of organic matter to the
soil from a green manure crop is comparable to the addition of
9 to 13 tons per acre of farmyard manure or 1.8 to 2.2 tons dry matter per acre. ...
In addition to the soil improving benefits,
cover crops can also enhance many pest management programs.
Ecologists tell us that stable natural systems are typically
diverse, containing many different types of plants,
arthropods, mammals, birds, and microorganisms. Growing cover
crops adds diversity to a cropping system. In stable systems,
serious pest outbreaks are rare, because natural controls
exist to automatically bring populations back into balance."
A comprehensive overview of principal uses
and benefits of cover crops and green manures by Preston
Sullivan at the ATTRA website. |
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Cover
Crops for Improving Vegetable Garden Soil |
"Rye is also allelopathic, which means that
its roots release compounds that inhibit the germination of
seed, both weeds and vegetables. It also can tie up nitrogen
for longer than any other cover crop"
Everything you need to know about pros and
cons of growing cover crops and green manures.
Article by Ron Wolford at the Green Line website. |
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Allelopathy |
"Allelopathy refers to the chemical
inhibition of one species by another. The "inhibitory"
chemical is released into the environment where it affects the
development and growth of neighboring plants.
Allelopathic chemicals can be present in any
part of the plant. They can be found in leaves, flowers,
roots, fruits, or stems. They can also be found in the
surrounding soil. Target species are affected by these toxins
in many different ways. The toxic chemicals may inhibit
shoot/root growth, they may inhibit nutrient uptake, or they
may attack a naturally occurring symbiotic relationship
thereby destroying the plant's usable source of a nutrient."
Article by Angela Rivenshield at the Cornell Science Inquiry Partnerships website. |
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| Kootenay Gardening |
Soil testing |
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Laboratory Soil Testing |
Test your soil for the pH level, nutrient content and percentage of organic matter.
A very useful article at the Organic
Gardening web site explains what soil test tests for, how to
prepare your soil sample, and what recommendations for
remedying soil deficiencies ask for the soil test laboratory. |
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10 Easy Soil Tests |
When you send a soil sample to a lab, you get
a detailed analysis of soil nutrients and you find out about
deficiencies. That's valuable information. Now you can also
assess your soil for even more critical qualities like soil
structure, compaction, soil organisms, and more.
An excellent article at the Organic Gardening web site, written by Julie Monahan, on simple
methods of practical soil testing. |
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| Kootenay Gardening |
Growing, harvesting and storing tips |
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Starting Your First Vegetable Garden |
A good, practical advice for new gardeners
how to start your first vegetable garden by Neil Moran.
Garden Guides website. |
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Gardening Basics |
An extensive selection of how-to articles about the fundamentals of gardening.
This American Garden Guides website
information can be easily adapted to our own climatic conditions. |
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Flowers Collection |
An extensive selection of articles about how to buy, plant, and care for
your garden plants. Garden Guides website. |
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Growing and Harvesting Vegetables |
Everything you need to know on growing and harvesting vegetables.
Garden Guides website. |
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Herb Gardening |
Lots of articles with information on
cultivation, harvesting and culinary use of common herbs.
Garden Guides website. |
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| Kootenay Gardening |
Pests and diseases |
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Controlling Pests and Diseases |
A set of articles with a very useful
information on how to organically control common pests and
plant diseases, soil solarization, how to lure beneficial
insects to your garden, and more.
Garden Guides website. |
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Pests and Diseases |
Want to know how aphids, bagworms, mormon
crickets, and many other common garden pests look like, where
they live, their life cycle, plants they attack, why they are
a problem, and how to control them organically?
Organic Gardening website articles explain all that. |
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Farmscaping to Enhance Biological Control |
Table of Pests and Associated Beneficial
Insects. Very helpful if you use biological pest control.
ATTRA website. |
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Some of our friends. |
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Design and photos © kootenaygardening.com 2006 - 2008 |
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